Bodysurfing the Summertime Blues Away

It’s summertime and we still wait the arrival of the pumping SW swells. The Pacific looks more like a lake than an ocean. Overcast days cloud the visibility of the water. Meager, mushy and choppy ankle-slappers make surfing with even a 10-foot balsa boring.

But 300 yards south of my home surfbreak is an under-the-radar beach break. It’s perfect for bodysurfing but closes out on the inside, so not a good standup surf break.

If the waves are too small to surf, I’ll do a check here at this beach break to see if any ripples are coming through for a bodysurf.

Bodysurfing keeps me in tune with the ocean. I have to judge where the wave is going to break and where my body will best be launched forward, just as I would have to in standup surfing.

I’d much rather go bodysurfing when the waves are 2-foot and less. Getting launched by a two-foot wave with just your body and floating on top of the water, feeling like you’re Superman, flying for over 50 yards!

Can’t help but feel totally stoked! It’s a profound experience. My mind tunes out the bad news I’m constantly bombarded with. Wars, genocides, journalists murdered … I didn’t take out the trash.

Bodysurfing, like surfing, makes one succeed in doing something that many people, especially in a first-world zoo like ours, never gets to do: being in the present and not thinking about anything!

The concept seems so simple to do: don’t think about anything. Most of us don’t practice doing that enough. So on a stuffy overcast waveless day, I bodysurf to stay stoked and stay in the present. After all, if you waited all summer for waves, you could go a quarter-year without being in the present.

And that’s what drives people insane. Whether someone collects stamps or ballroom dances, goes bowling or clips bonsai trees, or surfs or bodysurfs, all these activities, although not still meditation, places one in the comforting bosom of the present moment where the “chattering monkey-mind” ceases to exist, even if it’s just for a short while.

Sometimes when I surf, I’ll wait to come in until I’ve had a memorable ride. If I milk a ride to shore with five cutbacks or more, I usually decide to retire for the night on top of the world.

That’s what happened today with the last wave I bodysurfed. After about eight seconds of floating on top of the curl, everything turned pitched black. I noticed my jaws were slightly clenched and my eyes were squinting. I adjusted to zero-stress level and let God be my co-pilot and cherished every nanosecond I was effortlessly riding with the wave’s energy, having it hold me up gently like the wave is guiding me in a nurturing way.

If this is what it’s like to be in a wormhole, I want to be in one. I probably have. We all probably have over many lifetimes of interstellar commuting and reincarnating.

What a high walking down the beach after that ride which probably lasted a solid 12-14 seconds. Sounds like a minuscule amount of time, but trust me, being launched by a wave and flying like Superman, floating on top of a wave for just two seconds, even on a two-foot wave, is a rush.

Bodysurfing is an incredible way to connect with the ocean’s energy, improve wave awareness and practice swimming.

Try swimming the butterfly stroke past the break. It’ll really get your heart pumping!

Have fun!


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