The Thrill of Getting Pummeled

Submitted by Tad Coffin of MediaTitan.com

I’m comfortable surfing head-high waves. I’ve been in bigger surf and today was one of those days. There were sets that measured a couple-feet-overhead on some sets, and I’m not talking overhead for Tattoo from Fantasy Island; I’m talkin’ Shaq-sized behemoths.

The wavelengths were longer than airport runways. Strong offshore winds created very steep and intimidating drops. Nice rolling 8-foot waves are what I would have liked to have surfed today, not a continual set of steamrollers.

When I paddled out the sets were coming in 4-6 foot, which were manageable, but as the sun went down a few monster sets charged through. I pulled out at the last second on about a half dozen waves for fear of getting sucked over the falls into the cauldron of viciously-churning whitewater soup.

I didn’t catch a single wave, well, some white wash, but even so, it was great. Just to paddle out and navigate what to me are gigantic waves is extremely exhilarating. I am more than happy just to be out there watching the shredders and staying out of the way. I’m not really a very good surfer, but I am pretty good at paddling and duck diving, which is really most of the battle.

The highlight was paddling further out as a bigger set came in and paddling, paddling, paddling so as not to get crushed in the now-further out impact zone, straight into the face of a giant wave. “I wonder if I’ll make it…” The wave is starting to crest, I’m at the bottom and I know I’ve made it, shooting up the face and splashing out the backside in a tremendous spray as the wave breaks just behind me, wind-flung water pouring down like a monsoon. Ahh… how nice. Plus all this and the backdrop of the setting sun.

I have a 7’6″ and a 7’0”. I would like to get a 6’10″ gun for the bigger days, but a new wet suit is in order first. I’ve had the same wet suit for 9 years. It’s got more holes than the morning shift at Dunkin’ Donuts. The 7’0” is old and clunky and harder to duck dive than the 7’6″ so I use the 7’6″ pretty much all the time. I had a 6’10″, but the nose snapped off. I fixed it but it got waterlogged and crusty looking, so I gave it to some kid for 5 bucks. He was stoked.

And isn’t that what it’s all about… whether catching 20 overhead-sized waves, shredding each one to pieces, or getting pummeled to the point you swear a limb is about to tear off your body, it’s all about being perpetually stoked to be in the bosom of Mother Nature’s playground.

Tags: ,

Leave a Reply

Got Original Surf Art?

Unimaginative corporate logos will always sell, but that doesn’t mean that some surf apparel Davids can’t try to compete with the industry Goliaths. What would you rather wear? Clothes with a company name on it with a logo as bland as an Old Navy or Gap design (Hope we don’t get sued for saying that. Anyone know a good lawyer?); or would you rather wear original surf art spreading good vibes and a positive message? If you prefer the second choice and relate to the spiritual side of surfing, this website is for you.

So, what are you waiting for? Go check out the shop.

© Copyright Divine Surf Design 2006 - 2017. All rights reserved. Need help? Send us an email at info@divinesurfdesign.com. DivineSurfDesign.com is your online surf shop destination. Perfect for birthday gifts and holiday gifts, you’ll find surf art, surf clothes, including lots of surf t shirts and surf hoodies. In addition to surf shirts and other surf gear and surf wear like surf hats we have organic surf wear. You’ll also find surf stickers, surf clocks, eco water bottles, coffee mugs, tote bags, beach bags and lots of other cheap online shopping items. You can buy clothes online at this online surf store. We are one of the leading online surf shops and our soulful, original surf art stands out from all the other surf gear and online surf shops. Surf shops are supposed to be fun and welcoming and we hope you’ll find DivineSurfDesign.com to be one of the most fun places to buy clothes online. DivineSurfDesign.com also has surf baby clothes and also kids surf clothing. Why buy bland kids clothes? Make your kids stand out with funky original kids surf clothing. If you’re online clothes shopping at DivineSurfDesign.com, you’ll find cool surf fashion like beach clothes, surfing t shirts, mens clothing like mens shirts, as well as girls clothing like girls surf t shirts. Surf clothing brands don’t have to be bland! For your reading pleasure, DivineSurfDesign.com has dozens of surf journals and surf poetry. We hope you visit our online surf shop often! Aloha and Mahalo.