Kung Fu Surf Applications (The Tao of Surfing)

My feet are slightly wider than hip width, knees bent, inner thighs squeezing a wee bit towards each other as if I’m holding a ball between my legs.

Three inches below my belly button pulled in towards the spine…this is the dan dien point in Oriental arts. Core is engaged, ready for action.

Much like the immortal Lee’s ONE INCH PUNCH. Much like many meditative arts.

Energy drawn from heaven downwards to the spine, serving as life force juices, circulating and pulsing…

I am a spiritual, energetic sandwich of Divine Father above and Mother Earth below.

I am ready to haul ass down the line…dialed in with the fins.

The fins are where it’s at. Where what’s at?  What is this horrendous surf stream of consciousness I’m babbling about?

The fins that’s what I’m talking about.

Having that center of balance no matter what I’m doing. This is the essence. To be walking down the street, always conscious of Father Divine elongating my spine filling me with positive vibrations, mon.

And Mother Earth rooting me, making sure I’m not floating away. “How can I float away if there’s gravity?” my pragmatic Devil’s Advocate asks?

Not literally Devil’s Advocate dude—I’m talking metaphysically. If the monkey mind chatters away and wins the battle over present, positive-thought consciousness, then in a way I’m floating, not dialed in.

I feel the same way on a board, which is why I love surfing. It’s the rare moment to be so dialed in, and not thinking. Spanking the monkey mind, rendering it temporarily disabled.

On and on as I go through this joy ride of life, I will try my best to be as dialed in and rooted as possible.

Much like Lee was when launching the poor soul on the receiving end of a ONE INCH PUNCH.

Much like any pro surfer appearing to be flying down the line 30 “em-pee-aich” faster than your weekend warrior surfer.

A friend recently asked me why is it that pro surfers seem to be flying down the line of a wave?

Because they’ve been surfing for a long, long time or because they know how to get rooted over their fins?

Probably a combination of both.

A middle linebacker in football about to make a crushing tackle bends his knees and gets rooted before launching. Every sport or activity requires mastering the art of getting rooted. Surfing is no different.

I hope to one day master this concept. Until then, I will humbly enjoy the process.

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